Author Archives: Berkley

Solu Khombu Trek – Day 8 (Berkley)

I woke up feeling much better, but still quite weak.  I was really excited because, if all went according to plan, I would see seth in the late afternoon!  So, I head downstairs with my Kindle to have some breakfast.  I was absentminded and made a breakfast mistake.  Nepal doesn’t really do dairy products.  And, I”m going to go out there on a limb and say that they don’t eat yogurt.  So, when they try to serve it, it’s just not right.  Their yogurt may even be dry from a packet.  It kinda fizzes like soda and almost melts any other food item it touches.  Anyhow, I was debating between muesli and yogurt  and porridge.  I figured that the muesli and yogurt would be lighter than the porridge, and my stomach still wasn’t all the way better, so I went with that.  I should have gone with the porridge.  

As I was sitting outside at my little picnic table reading, listening to donkeys with their bells tinkle past on the mountain side, when people started coming in from the front street. About twenty Australians ascended upon me in my quiet solitude.  A nice woman named Ana sat down with me and chatted me up for the next hour.  It was nice.  Eventually they left, but soon thereafter another plane landed and another large group of people ascended upon me again.

I decided that I should try to go on a walk and check out a bit more of Phalpu.  I was still so weak that all I could muster was between five and ten minutes and I was exhausted.  Still not 100%.  At about ten o’clock I decided to head up to my room to make myself presentable for Seth when he arrived.  Though he was supposed to show up between 12 and 1pm, I got a knock at my door from Cook at about 10:30am.  Apparently Seth must have been running to get to Phalpu.  I trotted down the stairs to meet him.  It was so nice to see my sweaty, dirty husband.  Though I was happy to see him early and in one piece, I was dismayed to find that he’d slipped in yak poo and scraped his arm really good, and he was walking with a bit of a limp.  No good.  We scarfed down some noodle soup and caught up a little bit.

Pretty soon Purba came to tell us that we could get on the flight at noon to Kathmandu.  We ended up running onto the plane and were two of four passengers.  It was a bit scary getting on the plane.  I think I failed to mention in an earlier post, but during our trek there was a plane crash of a plane that followed the same flight path as ours.  So, we were nervous to fly.  But, we ended up receiving an unexpected treat on the flight.  Other than the little coconut caramel candies, we were able to catch an above the clouds view of Everest and the surrounding major peaks.  Pretty astounding.  

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We picked up our extra bag from Hotel Manaslu and made our way to Hotel Courtyard, where we will be staying for the rest of our time in Kathmandu.  It’s a really comfy, reasonably priced hotel.  It’s clean, has great internet, comfortable rooms, decent breakfast, and each room has a DVD player for the giant DVD library downstairs.  We both took nice, long, hot showers that were much appreciated, before resting and eating. Aahhh, Kathmandu!

Solu Khombu Trek – Day 7 (Berkley)

I felt pretty crappy last night, but woke up feeling pretty good.  I managed to keep down a bowl of porridge and we set off towards Phalpu.  At first, I was feeling pretty good, but was super down on myself for not being with Seth.  I kept wondering if we had just stayed at Sengephuk for another night, would I have been able to continue on?  Because my issue was definitely not altitude.  I felt just as horrible when at a much lower altitude as I did at the high altitude.  But, I guess there’s no real way of knowing.

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Later on our trek I began to feel progressively worse and worse.  I became so weak, my stomach was doing backflips, and I could barely lift my feet over the small rocks.  I needed a full day of rest and I wasn’t giving it to myself.  So, then I revisited my thought about how I might be trekking with Seth to Dund Kund right now if we had just stayed another night at Sengephuk, also, if we had stayed another day in Jumbese maybe the trek to Phalpu would have been easier.  I decided the pony idea was a bad one.  The trails are too perilous.  So many slippery rocks on trails that drop off the mountain.  Anyhow, after about four and a half to five hours we finally made it to Phalpu.  I feel like crap, but I’m drinking a lot of water.  I’m staying at the Hotel Everest and I get my own bathroom, not shower, but at least I don’t have to walk down the hall in the middle of the night.  And if all goes according to plan, I’ll see Seth tomorrow.  I hope all goes according to plan!

Solu Khombu Trek – Day 6 (Berkley)

I felt unwell all night.  I ended up waking up at midnight and was not able to fall back to sleep.  In the morning I felt horrible.  I was weak, my body was shaky and sensitive, and my stomach was feeling all kinda of nauseated.  Though I tried to continue, it was decided that it was a better, safer, choice for me to head back.  Whether I was feeling that way because I was sick or because of elevation didn’t matter, I couldn’t go on.  But, not before I got to see some yaks!  Though the people there would probably say I wasn’t excited to see yaks, I totally was.  It was on my list of Nepal things to see.  And since I won’t be seeing Everest anymore, at least I got to see some yaks.

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Peanut butter, honey, and raw garlic. Poor choice…

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Yakety yak, don’t talk back.

Through a little convincing Seth went on without me.  I took our Cook down to lower elevation.  Purba, our sherpa guide, was pretty convinced that what I was feeling was altitude sickness, but I was not completely convinced.  As we quickly descended in altitude not much changed.  It became a little easier to walk, but just a little.  Otherwise I still felt pretty crappy.  I was still weak, shaky and nauseated (especially since Purba told me to eat a giant clove of raw garlic for breakfast to combat the altitude sickness.  I accompanied it wit a spoonful of peanut butter, and I was burping up that combination all day.)  It took about four hours to reach our destination of Junbesi, and I felt like crap every grueling step of the way.  I was so careful not to trip and fall, or slip off the mountain in my weakness and sheer exhaustion.  At this point I’m back at the Apple Valley Lodge where I am resting, but still feeling horrible.  I meet with Seth in a few days back in Phaplu.  He’s going to be completing the trip at a more accelerated pace.  HIs job is to take tons of photos and to remember everything, so he can tell me all about it.  I’m glad one of us gets to complete the trek.

Solu Khombu Trek – Day 5

Our walk from the Thuptenchholing Monastery to Singephuk was beautiful.  We made our way out of one type of terrain to find ourselves in a forest.  The mulched ground and the mossy trees lent itself to such a silence.  It was a beautiful trek.  On our way we stopped at a ‘cave’ where monks used to spend time in solitude.  So, this is something interesting we’ve learned about since visiting Nepal and many monasteries.  When I picture a monk living in solitude, it is usually in a sparse room alone, maybe only a book of Buddhism to keep him company.  But apparently what solitude means is that a few monks go to a place and lock themselves away from the rest of the world, but the monks can speak with each other.  It’s just different from what I pictured.  Anyhow, we went to look at a ‘cave’ that monks use for solitary thoughts.  I use the word cave loosely, because they had fashioned an overhang of rock with bricks and a window, and called it a cave.  Once again, we had pictured something else.

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We stopped by a monastery school to look around, and they invited us in for tea.  People talk about trekking and stopping in Tea Houses along the way.  Well, I don’t think I’ve seen a tea house, or stopped in one, but we have stopped in numerous monasteries where they offer us tea galore.  It’s a nice practice.

We finally made it to Shengeephuk, and it was breathtaking.  A rounded out valley of massive proportions.  Spring fed streams twist and tangle all about the valley floor.   Set up of the left side of the valley wall sits the cave where the well respected, and recently deceased, Rimpoche spent three years in meditation.  Seth and I went for a walk trying to find the main source of the spring, but we decided that it was too high up on the wall.  By the time we decided this we were a bit of a boggy walk back to camp.  We spent a good amount of time rock hopping so as to not step in mud or fall in the water.

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A little while later we went back up to the cave house with all of our guys to pay respect to the late lama.  It was a very nice experience to be ble to share that with them.  We had a bunch of katas (prayer shawls) that we gave to all of them, and Poorba, our sherpa guide shared some of his grain with us in order to make an offering that way.  We then hung our prayer flags.  It was very nice.

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That evening is when I began to feel unwell.  But, I was determined to shake it.

Solu Khombu Trek – Day 4

This morning we woke up at 5am to be able to sit in on morning meditation with the nuns.  It was such a wonderful, relaxing experience.  The hum of their prayers reverberating through the brightly frescoed walls depicting peaceful and wrathful gods.  The nuns line up sitting crossed legged and sometimes stop to drink tea, or have a snack.  There are intermittent pauses in the chorus, and then they will all start up again, almost all at once.  There were occasional breaks where there would be playing of instruments like horns, cymbals, and drums, then back to the humming of prayer.  It felt very human.  Though they are a group of nuns, and a few monks here and there, it was a serious business, but not too serious for being friendly or human.  When someone would walk up to take their place, smiles and sometimes a brief conversation would ensue.

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Morning meditation at Thuptenchholing monastery.

We walked around and took in the sights.  And the sights are extraordinary.  The monastery is perched high above a valley with streams and tall pines everywhere.  There are Tibetan prayer flags strung across valleys of immense distance.  The monastery is not too old, so the buildings are in quite good condition, and they are beautiful in a beautiful setting.  We walked through numerous kitchens, all preparing food for the 600 or so nuns.  That means a lot of potatoes, since those are the staple here.  They grow a lot of spinach here too.  It really is a beautiful, magical, peaceful place.

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Dried yak cheese, it’s just as tasty as it sounds..

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A testament to their patients, nuns peal thousands of potatoes every day.

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Massive wood burning ovens that feed over 600 people 3 meals a day!

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A nun making roti.

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We had a lot of free time to go on walks and poke around the monastery.

In the late afternoon we met with the herbal medicine doctor to have our pulses read.  After gripping our wrists for a while, every now and then asking to see our tongues, we learned that Seth is having stomach issues and should lay off the sugar, and that I have hurt my back and should keep it warm.  Alrighty! I wonder if the pained expressions on my face while stretching my back or the snickers bar wrapper in the trash can had anything to do with our diagnoses?

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Solu Khombu Trek – Day 3

Seth woke up feeling completely better.  It was a quick recovery and he’s back to his own self.  Good! Disaster averted!

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We woke up bright and early, once again, to find spectacular views of the snowy peaks of Caryolung, Khatang, Numbur.  It proved for breathtaking views while walking up the hill to the Selo Monastery.  The Selo Monastery was very busy during our visit.  Apparently they are expecting a visitor within the next month who is a high lama from India and they wanted to make the monastery look beautiful for him.  They were repainting frescoes, remodeling guest housing, and refinishing wood, which was everywhere.  We got the chance to speak with the head lama of the monastery Tulku Pema Tarchen.  And then, one of his monks took us around for a tour.  This monastery focuses on teaching rather than practicing, so there are many children there.  It was nice to see their classrooms and their library.

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After lunch we trekked for about two and a half hours to Thuptenchholing Monastery, which is home to 600 Buddhist nuns.  We were invited into the head nun’s office for tea, and ended up being served two bowls of noodle soup.  You don’t really have a choice in the matter.  There was a father and son there, also, and the father was trying to refuse more tea at one point, but gave in.  When the son was approached he grabbed his cup and told her no politely, but he still ended up having more tea.  That was pretty funny.

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We spend a little time in the hospital where we were able to see a bit of Tibetan herbal medicine.  There was an entire wall filled with pictures of plants that are medicinal.  That was really neat.

Solu Khombu Trek – Day 2

We woke up bright and early with tea in our tent.  It was a cold night, but putting Nalgene bottles filled with hot water at the foot of our sleeping bags helped loads.  Our trek today was about two and a half hours, once again, and it was not too bad.  Well, it was not too bad for us.  I don’t know how these porters do it.  They are carrying a ton of weight and they carry it all by using a strap that rests on their heads.  Totally different from anything I have ever tried.  But, I guess we’ve seen that many other cultures carry loads on their heads.  This looks very difficult though and potentially quite painful.  Seth brought up a good point, that  perhaps this is why there are many older people hunched over.  Not sure.

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Junbesi is a picturesque village in the valley of some beautiful mountains covered in large pine trees.  A river runs through the center of the valley and is the lifeline for the village.  They actually have a really interesting solution to drainage.  They dig ditches and lay flat rocks to cover the ditches, leaving enough space between the rocks to allow the water to drain.  We visited Junbesi Monastary.  Though it was empty, it was nice to poke around.  The monastery was painted in bright colors and had beautiful murals on the walls.  The art form here is so different from anything we’ve seen so far.  It’s refreshing.

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We, then, went to visit the Hillary Secondary School.  Sir Edmund HIllary, the first to summit Mount Everest, is the namesake of this school.  Whether he made a donation or not is something I don’t know.  It was nice to watch the children play.  And it’s absolutely adorable when you say namaste and place your hands together in front of your chest, because most of the time they will return your greeting.  So cute.  We spent a while watching them play.  Seth eventually turned into the main attraction.  He took a picture of a little boy that no matter how hard I tried I couldn’t get him to smile.  He just looked at me like I was a giant ugly bug.  Then I saw him look at Seth and smile largely.  It turned out that he liked to have his picture taken.  Seth was soon mobbed by children who wanted to get their picture taken and then look at them on the viewfinder.  They soon figured out that you could swipe the screen and scroll through the photos.  But once two fingers touched the screen the camera didn’t know what to do and just didn’t do anything.  It was fun to watch as Seth was encircled by the small children.

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That evening, Seth wasn’t feeling so well.  He probably was running a fever, either way he was feeling pretty crappy.  Hope that remedies itself quickly, because I’d hate for it to mess up Seth’s trip.

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Solu Khombu Trek – Day 1

We left the hotel bright and early at 6:20 in order to catch our flight at 7:45.  Thomas and Lakpah got us to the airport in time for our flight, but it turned out the flight was delayed till 9:20.  That’s ok.  We hung around for a bit before taking a short flight in a 20 passenger plane over some high valleys and mountain crests.  It was a beautiful little flight.  The descent was intense.  We followed a mountain ridge and them made a complete u-turn, dive bombing in order to land on a tiny dirt strip on the side of a mountain.  Fun!

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Phaplu is a small village of about 700 people.  Before they built a closer landing strip, Phaplu used to be the landing strip to climb Mount Everest.  That’s a long trek before you even reach base camp.  We went up to Hotel del Sherpa for some tea, and then met with Buddha, who showed us around the local hospital.  It was actually a very nice, clean facility.  It was nice to see, and to find that people use the cheap, if not free, medical service.  Then we had a quick lunch before heading out on our trek.

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Our trek today was only about 2-3 hours.  It was a pretty easy day through a beautiful valley where we ended up in Beni, in an open valley to camp by the river.  It’s a nice peaceful area.  There are a lot of people who pass by, and everyone is smiling and appreciative of a, “namaste”.  We watched children having an organized play time during school, where they played games that were unlike our childhood games, and difficult to figure out.  We watched a pack of mules walk by our campsite and cross a narrow wooden shaky bridge over a river.  It’s a nice start to our trek.

Yoo Hoo Kathmandu!

We’re still in Kathmandu, but we’re so close to heading out on our trek.  We met with our Nepal fixer Thomas Kelly, and mutual friend of August Thurmer.  He and his friend Lakpah met us at our hotel to give us the rundown on our trek.  We found out that we needed to gather up a few more things before we could consider ourselves trek ready.  So we headed back to Thamel, the tourist center,because that is where all of the outdoor equipment stores are concentrated.  These are places where you can find anything from a fluffy, down North Fake jacket, some Pseudogonia fleece long underwear, or some Nullgene water bottles.  But, all the stores are bargain-able.  And if you find the right shopkeeper, you can cut a good deal, especially if you level with them, reminding them that it’s not really the brand name gear.  But there are actual brand name stores as well.  I found my t-shirt at the Mountain Hartwear store.  It turned out that we needed a lot more gear than we had expected, but we wouldn’t have been able to carry all of it anyhow.  So, we went shopping.  

That day we, also, ate at two wonderful restaurants.  For lunch we went to Chez Caroline, which Thomas recommended.  We were in heaven.  Thomas told us that they were known for their salads and that we were safe eating there.  Seth and I split a BLT and we each ordered a Caroline Salad.  Man oh man.  It had been a while since we were able to eat a salad, and it happened to be a great one.  And the BLT was wonderful as well, with proper bacon.  The only thing missing was the Crystal hot sauce for the sandwich.  For dinner we went back to New Orleans, the restaurant from our first evening in Nepal.  It’s still beautiful, and the food is still delicious.  But, I don’t think they know what a smoothie is, or perhaps their blender broke.  The first time Seth ordered a milkshake, but ended up with chocolate milk, and this time he ordered a fruit smoothie, and ended up with fruit juice.  Both were nice options, but not what he had ordered.  Hmmm…

The next day our planned part of Nepal began.  We were picked up from our hotel by Lakpah and taken back to Budah Stupa (maybe called Budahnath in another post), that’s the place where the Buddhists circumambulate around the stupah in prayer.  It was a very different experience from our first visit.  The first time it was nice to just take in the scenery and make conjectures on what was going on.  This time, we were given a wealth of information from Thomas who explained everything we asked and more.  And he speaks Nepali, and loves to shoot the shit, so he has a lot of friends anywhere he goes.  It’s neat to watch him interact with the locals.

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Very close to the Budah Stupa lives Pema, Thomas’s foster daughter.  She runs a sort of clinic where they have herbal medicines, acupuncture, and massage therapy.  Thomas had set up a massage for Seth and I.  It was so wonderfully welcome.  And we both agreed that it was probably one of the best massages we’d ever had.  Following our massage, we found our way upstairs to the kitchen where we would help to make momos.  Momos are Nepali dumplings.  The are delicious.  We made chicken momos and potato momos.  They were served with a peanut and tomato sauce that was quite tasty.

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After that, we walked with Lakpah to Pashupatinath, which is a Shiva Temple complex.  So, we were switching from Buddhism to HIndu.  The feel of both places were quite different.  At the buddhist temple there was a warm happy feeling and an overall sense of love.  Though the Shiva temple complex was pretty, it was quite dirty, filled with monkeys, and absent of people.  There were people there, but way less than at Budah Stupa.  From the Shiva temple we made our way down to the Bagmati river where there are cremation ghats.  The hindu people have a tradition of cremation, but it involves the holy river as well.  First, they wrap the loved one in a cloth and bring them to the river.  They strategically place the body on a ramp that leads to the river so that the person’s feet are in the water.  They allow the river to wash the deceased’s feet for some time before lifting them from the water to rest them on a funeral pyre, where they set a butter lamp inside the mouth where the fire will start to burn.  Once the person is fully cremated their ashes are scattered in the river.  We were able to see different stages of this ritual during our visit.  I think it is a nice way to lend some closure. 

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BUT, there’s a reason why there is a problem with water contamination in India and Nepal.  HIndus use the rivers for way too much.  I’ve just mentioned what they do with their deceased, and on top of that they bathe, wash clothes, potentially go to the bathroom, and throw their trash in this holy river.  The water is horribly polluted.  That part is hard for me to digest, and that is why I will not touch a river near human habitation.

After the ghats we went over to a hospice center run by Mother Teresa’s nuns.  It was a really nice place for the elderly who were not able to grow old in the care of their families.  It was very nice to see, but you should not picture an old folks home like in the US.  It was quite different from that.  But the elderly here are quite different from in the States.  They are a functioning part of the community until they no longer can be.  These old ladies are tough.  The place had good vibes.

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Kathmandu Will Do!

We’re really enjoying Kathmandu. This is our third night in Kathmandu and it feels nice to stay put, to really get to know a place.

Our first night, I mentioned finding the magic.  What I neglected to mention was my glorious hotel find, ahem…  I no longer think I can trust the opinion of TripAdvisor.  I found Hotel Silver Home on TripAdvisor and it was rated at 4.5 out of 5 stars, and the reviews mentioned large rooms, comfort, and cleanliness.  Well, the room was a nice size.  It was large enough for a twin and a double bed, a table, and a couch.  But that’s where the review’s reliability ends.  I couldn’t get comfortable in the room due to the uncleanliness.  The carpet was gross, the bathroom was even grosser, and the sheets were definitely not clean.  The toilet seat was an abomination, and there was a hole in the wall of the bathroom that lead to nastiness.  And if that wasn’t bad enough, as we were getting comfy in our travel sheets (a must while traveling) Seth found a roach trying to snuggle with him.  Yuck! So we shook out our sheets and tied the top opening in a knot.  Fire hazard, maybe, but at least it was effective in keeping out the bugs.  At the end of the day, it was really my fault.  No matter where you go, a ten dollar hotel is still a ten dollar hotel.  I had set my hopes too high on the exchange rate and put too much trust in TripAdvisor.  Never again!

The next morning we made our way to Hotel Courtyard, which is much better.  Clean and comfortable, it has it’s own quiet courtyard and it’s far enough away from the busy section to have a quiet night’s rest.  Ahhh…

In Old Kathmandu is Durbar Square.  After walking through twisting narrow streets, lined with shops, we made our way to the sectioned off part of the town.  The asian influence in this area is quite strong.  The architecture shows it.  We meandered through countless temples, pausing to take in the sights of various depictions of gods in the various forms.  The highlight for me was seeing the living goddess of Kumari Chowk.  Yes, you heard me.  The cult of Kumari worships a living prepubescent girl who is said to be the incarnation of Taleju.  There is a selection process in which girls aged around three to five from the buddhist Shakya clan of goldsmiths are interviewed a lot like how the Tibetans choose their incarnation of the Lamas.  Apparently there are 32 auspicious signs of the Kumari which include odd things like a neck like a conch shell, and eyelashes like a cow.  Horoscope is, also, rigorously checked to see that it is not in direct conflict with that of the king (though at this point in time there is no king in Nepal anymore).  The Kumari’s feet never touch the ground, and she is not allowed out except on special occasions, like festivals, where she is carried upon her throne.  Though photos are strictly forbidden, we were lucky enough to show up right as the Kumari decided to make a short appearance at one of the courtyard windows, where she looked around for about half a minute before returning inside.  This Kumari was chosen in October of 2008 at the age of three, making her about 7 years old.  It is said that when the Kumari bleeds, whether from menstruation or otherwise, the goddess’s spirit leaves the body, and therefore she retires and a new Kumari is chosen.  Becoming a mere mortal can be difficult, even to find a husband, because it is said that whoever marries a Kumari will die young.  So, Seth and I saw the incarnation of a goddess.  I thought the whole situation was weird and really interesting.

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On a side not, this has to be the most awesome cutout we’ve ever seen.

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In the evening we went to a fancy shmancy restaurant in a super fancy hotel.  In this restaurant you get to choose anywhere from a six to twenty two course meal.  We opted for twelve and it was definitely too much food, but you better believe that I finished most of it.  I think the experience was way more exciting than the actual food.  Though I did like the momos, little dumplings, and the pureed fruit and yogurt dessert was good.  It was nice to be dressed up, in a country that we, so far, like, and drink wine with my husband.  

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Today we did a bit of shopping, or at least browsing.  Then we went somewhere really cool.  We went to the Buddhist temple.  It is like walking into it’s own little world.  There is a large domed temple in the center and people walk clockwise around the temple on the path.  There are tons of restaurants and shops selling prayer beads and other handicrafts.  The temple area and the maze of streets that spiral outwards consist of a little Tibetan community.  The architecture and everything else inside reflected that.  

We ended up finding a basement restaurant called 3D.  We had delicious Tibetan food.  Buff momos (buff = buffalo), and Seth ordered hot and sour soup, and I ordered egg thukpa (a noodle soup).  The food was really delicious.  We also ordered honey, lemon, and ginger tea, which was perfect.  We were really jonesin for some warm liquids to soothe our throats.  Kathmandu has a lot of road construction taking place right now, which causes a lot of dust to be in the air.  Today we bought face masks, but the soup and tea were needed and enjoyed.