Monthly Archives: July 2012

Confused

Hello all! I have to say, I’m a bit confused.  It’s been a while since I’ve posted and I’m not sure I’m going to be completely accurate on the daily accounts of our days since.  

I left off with our excursion to Kimolos, which was fun.  The next day we decided to start off as we somehow always do, with a long, hot walk up a hill.  We decided to visit a beach that we had seen on one of our bus rides called Papafragos.  It was all turquoise water, white sand, and white rocky cliffs that bordered the beach and created natural bridges and little caves.  The bus schedule didn’t fit our needs, and that’s why we walked.  It was long, and hot, but doable.  We ended up picking little snacks of grapes and figs on the way from trees and vines that lined the road.  Yum!  When we finally made it to the beach the water was refreshing.  Seth sat on the beach and drank his beer while Sloane and I went for a swim.  We checked out a cave, that didn’t end up being something we could enter, boo.  Then we noticed that there was a natural bridge that looked like it ended in a little private beach.  We decided to check it out.  The first bridge was cool.  But it was kinda creepy to be in the bridge’s shadow, because it made it hard to see underwater.  Then there was a longer bridge that led to the little beach.  That was super dark.  And, it turned out this was where there was a suction for any and all trash.  Uck, Sloane and I swam through that.  Oh well.  We made our way back to the other side where we sat on the beach at the water’s edge until we had our fill.  It was really pretty.  We, then, caught a ride back to the town.  There was no way we were walking.

MIlos Papafragos1

Milos Papafragos2

That afternoon we had lunch at another restaurant on the water.  That sounds luxurious, and it is, but they’re all on the water.  There’s a string of about 8 restaurants for that side of the island, and they are all on the ‘road’ that line the beach.  We decided to go traditional.  Sloane got a traditional baked eggplant dish, Seth ordered the lamb in lemon sauce, and I decided on musaka.  It was all really delicious, but I think I liked Seth’s the best.

Milos Baked Eggplant

Milos Mousaka

Milos Lamb

We then made our way to our regular hang out.  I think I’ve failed to mention that at least twice a day on Milos we went to this one restaurant to hang out and play Farkle.  We have kind of gotten to know the servers and they know us.  As a matter of fact, they have begun to predict what we will order, and are usually quite accurate.  Anyhow, I asked how to pronounce the name of the restaurant, and then what it meant.  The meaning is baby goat.  I inquired, “baby sheep?” and the waiter laughed a bit and said, “no, baby goat, the owner just has a thing with sheep”.  I’m glad he found the humor as well.  But, like I said, we’ve gone there multiple times a day our entire stay on Milos.  They are friendly, their drinks and ice cream are good, and they automatically bring you water without charging you.  Winner!  Also, they enjoyed watching us play Farkle and ended up asking us about the game.  By the last night they were taking bets on who would win, and one even rolled for Sloane.  This turned out to be her downfall, because she was doing really well until he rolled for her.  The other server told us this was a bad idea because he was bad luck, because he was born on a Saturday (which is apparently bad luck in Greece).  

Milos Sheep Cafe

Anyhow, that afternoon was the Farkle game of ouzo.  Seth bought a bottle of ouzo and set the rules.  If you Farkle you take a shot, and if you roll 1000 you, also, take a shot.  Of course I ended up farkle-ing first and rolling 1000’s like it was my job.  I ended up with 7 shots, more than the others.  Oh well.

When we woke up the next day it was super windy.  We obviously were not going to the beach, and being anywhere near sand was quite painful.  We didn’t know what to do.  So, we went for a walk and checked out the waves.  Sloane won a bet where Seth dared her to sit by the edge of the rocks for 2 minutes.  She got a bit wet.  She won her ice cream. Then, we went and played Farkle.   

Milos Windy 089

Milos Windy Sloane 2

Milos Windy Sloane 3

Milos Windy Sloane 4

Milos Windy Sloane 5

Milos Windy Sloane 6

The next morning we woke up and took a ferry to Folegandros, another small Cycladic island.  The ferry was short and uneventful.  We found an apartment to rent while at the dock.  Folegandros is daunting.  Its landscape is comprised of sweeping hills that end in sheer rock cliffs overlooking the sea.  The whitewashed, cubed, buildings a stark contrast to the browns and reds of the earth.  Piled rock walls zig zag over the countryside partitioning the land for their owners, and enclosing livestock like donkeys, goats, sheep, and chickens.  The main village of Chora sits precariously on the cliffs edge.  A small town, walked from end to end in about 5 minutes or less, is a labyrinth of whites and blues, opening up here and there to small squares filled with tables shaded by trees and umbrellas.  Our first stop was for lunch.  We found a restaurant that made their own pasta and had the local dish of rabbit in red sauce.  That was a savory treat.  But, the lunch favorite was the simply named, chickpeas in the oven.  Hopefully Seth will describe this dish, or maybe have an idea of how it was prepared.  Because what I can tell you is that the sauce was thick, and creamy, but not dairy based.  It was very good.

Folegandros Berkley

Folegandros terrace

Folegandros cliffs

Folegandros night

That night, while at dinner, we happened to have chosen the restaurant right next to a wedding.  So halfway through our meal music and dancing began.  It was another wonderful, unexpected surprise that we could not have planned if we had tried.  

Something I failed to mention was the wind.  Apparently Folgandros is always windy, but our first day there was exceptionally windy.  So windy, in fact, that we were in jeopardy of losing our food at dinner.  We guarded our plates as we watched chairs drift down walkways as their owners chased after them.  If you stood up it was liable to happen.  The only wind I’ve seen stronger has been in tropical storms.  

The next day, yesterday, we went on a boat tour of the island.  5 beaches and lunch for 28 euros.  This was good, because we had wanted to do this on Milos but it was 50 euros there.  This was a good idea because Folegandros was a bit more difficult to get around.  The boat tour was nice, but we didn’t really stop at beaches per say.  It was more like we stopped off the shore to swim for about 20 minutes before we got back on the boat.  But it was really nice.  It was hot and the water was cool.  There were rocks to climb and jump off of and I learned that I have a new party trick.  Apparently I can touch the bottom in pretty deep water.  So, I began retrieving rocks for people.  Mostly Seth and Sloane, but some of the others got in on it too.  

Folegandros Beach Day1

Folegandros Beach Day2

Folegandros Beach Day3

On the boat we met some people.  We met Nick, from Sydney, Australia, and we met a couple on their honeymoon, Whitney and Baptiste, from Paris, France (well, Whitney happened to be from Hawaii, but met her now husband while studying abroad in Paris. Every fathers nightmare!)  They were all very nice and we spent some time exchanging travel stories.  When we got back to port, guess what we did.  We played Farkle!!  Finally, new players!  Baptiste was the winner of having the most Farkles, while Whitney took the lead early on and won.  Totally fun.  

Folegandros Farkle

Folegandros Farkle Group

This morning we split from Sloane.  We are heading back to Athens to figure out our next move, and Sloane went to Ios, a nearby island.  It was totally fun traveling with Sloane.  But, I think she’s done with traveling with us, and with traveling in general.  She seems to be looking forward to making her way home.  Sloane has 15 more days until she”ll be home, and we’ve been traveling for 40 days.  We will be in Turkey within the next week or so, but are not sure if we’ll make a stop somewhere else before then.  Athens is a pretty good hub so we are going to figure that out while there.

Panigiri!

So, at about 9:45 we made our way to the center of the village of Pollonia to the panigiri (pronounced pan-ah-YEE-ree), which means party.  It’s kinda sad, but if I’m being completely honest, I’m not sure what the occasion was celebrating.  In general there are name days for saints, and these are celebrated.  But, since the flyers were all in Greek we couldn’t figure it out, and it wasn’t in our guide book, so…  Anyhow, it was awesome.  We showed up when the line for food was pretty small.  We waited and watched all the men cooking the meats on the grill.  We gathered and paid for our food and then went to find a table.  I forgot to describe the venue.  It took place at the playground on the basketball courts.  There was a stage for music, an open area for dancing, then tons of tables and chairs surrounding the ‘dance floor’.  So, one of us should have grabbed a table while the other two got the food, because by the time we needed to find a table, tons of people were already doing this and all the tables were full, or reserved.  We asked some people with empty tables if we could share with them, and we were turned away.  When we were resigned to hide away on a bench on the outskirts, by where they were cooking the food, a woman approached Seth and offered to share their table with us.  She went out of her way to cross the sea of tables to invite us, so this was really, really nice.  When we got to her table, she and her husband kicked their three kids out of the chairs and insisted we sit.  This was awesome.  Then again, the kids were probably happy not to be kept prisoner when all the town’s children were running a muck with glow in the dark bouncy toys and play guns.  We had a great spot where we could see the dance floor and the musicians, and eat with a table.  

Milos Panagrri meat

Milos Panagrri scene

The food was delicious.  There were cheese pies, fried fish, meatballs, but the best were the pork skewers.  Those were so good.  And of course tons of Fix beer to wash it all down.  The music started promptly and it was great.  I think I’m safe to say that it was traditional Greek music, with guitars, fiddle/violin, bass, but they were all Greek instruments.  The music was amazing.  The discordant, twirling harmonies combined with the savory warble of the singer’s voice, and the steady, almost Arabic, beat prompted the locals to begin dancing with their arms stretched wide, dipping to the beat.  The older men began dancing first, almost in friendly competition with each other.  Soon the women rushed the dance floor to join.  The older men held handkerchiefs in order to bridge the gap between their hands with the women. What a wonderfully romantic, and seductive dance.  We spent the evening drinking and watching the interactions between people.  It was so wonderful.  

Milos Panagrri Berkley

Milos Panigiri Food 1

Milos Panigiri Food 2

Milos Panigiri Beer

Eventually a middle aged man sat down at a table next to us with a giant water bottle of what looked like home made wine.  Eventually he began handing out cups of it to some people behind him.  Somehow we were left out, so Sloane, with some prodding, ended up asking him for a cup.  In the end, when he was leaving, he offered the rest of the bottle to us.  Even though it wasn’t very good, it was so cool to be drinking some home made wine from Milos, that was given to us by the maker.

Milos Panigiri Sloane Wine

Here’s a sample of some of the music from the panigiri.

http://www.sethandberkley.com/downloads/milosMusic.m4a

This morning we lazily awoke and Seth made breakfast.  We, then, made our way to the ferry dock in Pollonia to catch a ride to Kimolos, a tiny island barely touched by tourist influence.  We started to walk up the hill to get to the main village in hopes of catching, what the bus driver called the best beach on the island, which wasn’t accessible by bus, Prassa.  Boy it was hot today, definitely nineties.  These uphill walks in the heat have to stop.  When we were almost to the top of the hill we stopped in to a shop to grab some water, and decided to call a cab.  Though the cabbie was deft in her maneuvers, it was scary as hell to be in the car while speeding around blind corners on super skinny roads on the side of a mountain, with lots of loose gravel.  Yikes!  But, we made it to the beautiful white sand beach of Prassa.  The water was a little cool, but we were pretty hot, so it was great.  There were little fishies all over the place, and since the turquoise water was impeccably clear we could see everything.  

There was an island nearby, so Seth and I decided to swim out to it.  That was a long swim.  It took us at least 10 minutes of continuous swimming to reach the little island.  We walked the coast a little bit before finding a shorter route back, another long swim.  Afterwards we dried off a bit and hitched a ride back to the port.  

In the evening Seth cooked a dinner of pasta with fresh vegetables, and we hung out till we fell asleep

Food – the perfect Greek snack

After a quick trip to our local market in Pollonia Greece, on the island of Milos, i made myself a nice midday snack. A Greek salad always consists of tomatoes, feta, kalamata olives, oregano, and olive oil. As we have found out it can have a few other ingredients, such as bell pepper, cucumbers, and lettuce to name a few, but always includes the first six. 

The market in Pallonia sells produce that is grown all over the island, and in some cases right here in town. It seems like every Greek house hold has an array of fruits and veggies growing in their yard.

Perfect Snack

I know, I’m behind!

I know that I’m behind, but we’ve been moving around a lot! I’ll start from where I left off, in Vis, Croatia.  We left Vis and made our way to Trogir.  Trogir is, also, named a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  I’ll look up what that actually means eventually.  Trogir was a super tiny island with an old town built upon it.  We stayed on the other side of the bridge from Trogir which cut down a bit on the noise factor, and probably the price, although the little apartment we stayed in was more than we’d wanted to spend. Trogir was cute, but too touristy.  We stayed there because it was a short ride from the airport, so it suited our needs.  

The next morning the person who was renting out the apartment drove us to the airport (for a bit of a fee).  Split airport was quite deceiving.  After getting through security (where both Seth and I had to take off our shoes because we buzzed.  Weird, because there is absolutely no metal in our shoes) we parouzed the duty free shop and found a snack at the snack bar.  We were disappointed with our selection, and then were kicking ourselves when we went up a level to where our gate was.  On that level there were shops and restaurants with good looking food.  Bummer.

We were off for another adventure.  Athens was going to be our first CouchSurfing experience.  Sloane set it up for us.  A native Athenian, was going to host us near the center of the city (I didn’t ask for permission to use his name on the blog, so I’ll respect his privacy).  Seth and I were nervous of what to expect.  We made our way through the metro to get to a stop near his apartment and found him at the opening to the street.  He immediately whisked us away in his fancy Alpha Romeo with red leather interior.  It was nice to be in a nice car.  He was charming and informative.  After settling in and offering us drinks, he offered to take us to a place for lunch.  He drove us around in search of a place to eat.  Since it was Sunday, and at a weird in-between hour, it was a bit difficult.  We tried three places before we found one that was open.  It was really good! We had a Greek feast!  There was greek salad, fried cheese, a whole fish, some prawns, some kind of sautéed greens, but my favorite was this creamy, white paste that was made from caviar.  It was amazing.  I could eat it with a spoon for hours, or dunk bread in it, or tomatoes…

Athens Caviar

 

Apparently, it is Greek tradition that the youngest has to eat the most.  So, since there was one filet of the fish left, Sloane had to finish it, even though she was full.  But, she was promised to get ice cream if she did.  So, afterwards we headed to a wonderful little sweet shop with artisan ice cream.  We got what he told us were traditionally Greek flavors like, pistachio, rose water, and this one flavor called Mastic that I had to look up to see what it was.  It is the resin from a tree with hints of pine or cedar.  It’s really good, and we’ve tried ice cream elsewhere where they added honey to it.  It is really good.  (here’s a link to the wikipedia page http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mastic_(plant_resin) )

That night we went out to an area called Gazi where all these posh bars are.  It was really neat.  There were lots of people out even though it was Sunday.  We sat on a rooftop bar and drank fancy mixed drinks like pomegranate and honey martinis and smashed basil and mint coolers under a little olive tree.

The next day, our amazing host drove us to the Acropolis before he went to work.  We meandered about the ancient Greek ruin with wide eyes (and a lot of Spanish tourists).  The Acropolis was an amazing site with so much history, and spectacular views of the city.

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Athens 381

After the Acropolis we strolled around the streets at the base of the mountain.  There were tons of shops and things to look at.  It happened to be extremely hot, so we ended up doing a bit of drinking to cool ourselves down.  But that allowed us to use the free wifi and have a bit of Skype conversations.  We, also, bought Sloane some traditional Greek Sandals for her birthday.  She REALLY needed new sandals, and they were pretty cool.  We, also, found our ferry tickets to Milos and a place to stay.  Both were a little more than we wanted to spend, but it was our only option.

Athens 403

After tons of walking around Athens city center, we metro-ed our way back to our couch surfing residence, and were picked up.  That night we cooked dinner at his home.  It was really nice.  There’s something about cooking and sharing a meal together that brings people together.  We were taught how to cook braised baby goat, a proper Greek salad (with a cool tomato technique), and goat chops and kebab on the grill.  It was all so good! And, I always like trying new things.  Goat was a first for me.  We finished off our meal with fresh fruit (Greek fruit), and some candied grapes in its own syrup that his mother made.  Everything was cooked with Greek ingredients and that made it all the better.  Our couch surfing host was patient, giving, well informed on everything Greek, and a good conversationalist.  It was a really good experience, and I hope all of our couch surfing experiences can be that good!

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The next morning we caught a cab at 6am to get to the port.  Milos, here we come!  Well, we’re here.  We found our sleepy little fishing village and our one bedroom apartment with ease and settled in by slapping on some suits and hopping in the water. It is so clear!  A little colder than expected, but refreshing.  There were tons of cool critters on the sea floor to follow in our masks.

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We swam a lot yesterday and hung around.  It was nice to read a book with our amazing view.

Milos 007

At night we made our own greek salad with bread, all from the local market.  Then, we headed into ‘town’ to grab a drink and to play Farkle.  Seth won the first game, and since I lost I had to run screaming from the table and go back to our apartment to collect more money.  Luckily, I won the second game.  But, sadly, there was no wager.  Boo!

Today, after a delicious breakfast of eggs, tomatoes, and feta, we hopped on a bus to get to the port town of Adamas.  We poked around in the shops and grabbed snacks.  We then found our way to another little village to see the only Christian Catacombs in Greece.  We walked up a bit of a hill, then made our way down a switchback road to the catacombs.  Luckily, they were closed! So, we didn’t get to go in.  If there were things to see or do in the surrounding village we might have walked around a bit, but as it turns out there wasn’t, and the bus back to where we wanted to go left in 10 minutes time.  We decided to make a run for it.  We had 10 minutes to run uphill in 90 degree heat.  Man, oh man, were we sweating when we finally reached the bus stop.  But, we made it there with about 3 minutes before the bus arrived.  Fortunately, the buses here are well air conditioned.

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Milos 086

We grabbed a lunch of gyro and souvlaki at a restaurant in town.  Seth got his ‘covered’ which was a big mistake.  It was doused with cheese and bacon and french fries and mayonnaise. It was a mistake.  That was definitely a touristy option, but we didn’t know.  Sloane and I got ours in a more traditional fashion and it was pretty good, although lacking the proper amount of tzaziki.

We decided to do a bit of grocery shopping, due to the scarcity of goods in our sleepy little village.  So, so we gathered the usual suspects, of feta, tomatoes, eggs, etc. and made our way back to Pollonia.  

Tonight, I have a feeling our sleepy little village won’t be so sleepy.  Tonight is a Panagiri! So exciting.  Panagiri is the Greek word for party.  So we are going to a party run by the village where there will be food and dancing and probably some drinking.  Traditional music will be played, and I hope it’s a blast.  So, we’ve put on our fanciest outfits and we’ll head out soon!

Sloane Loves Olives

She loves brined olives of course, not the fresh ones. For those of you that have never had the opportunity to eat a fresh olive off of a tree they are incredibly bitter and will immediately suck all of the moisture out of your mouth. It will also effect your taste buds for at least an hour afterward, Sloane claimed like it felt like she had a layer powder on her cheeks afterward. Sloane won herself a large beer for doing what’s in the video bellow.

Our first meal in Greece

What an amazing first meal. Sloane has become a pro at using a website called couchsurfing, it’s basically a site for travelers who want to open their home to each other and show off their city. We were treated to a late lunch/early dinner by Yannis, the incredibly generous man who was hosting us in Athens. Being sunday afternoon, his first few choices were closed. But 4th times a charm, and charming it was. I was only able to get a few quick shots of the meal but it was a great introduction to Greek food. We had Greek salad, they make it almost how you would expect plus green bell peppers. A fish egg paste called Taramosalata that was amazing. It’s best described as a cross between creamy hummus and the garlic sauce they serve at Zankou Chicken in Los Angeles, not fishy at all. I even think my younger sister Emily could have enjoyed this stuff. A few grilled shrimp, some whole fresh fish, some meatballs, some fried cheese, and a plate or two of french fries.

Athens 006

Athens 004

Milan Italy Meatballs

I haven’t been posting much lately because the food in Croatia was uninspired, for the past week and  half we have had the exact same menu to order from.

3 soups, beef, tomato and mushroom.

4 salads, cabbage, tomato, seasonal (lettuce) or mixed, and mixed is literally cabbage, lettuce and tomato.

a few spaghetti options that would probably include tomato sauce and carbonara.

1 or 2 Risotto’s

Some exceptionally expensive fish and meat options.

And Bread (which all restaurants charge for even if you don’t ask for it).

 

We have left Croatia on our 3 day trek to get to Milos, a small greek island and I’ve become inspired to write about the food we have been eating again. This meal was found near the Duomo in Milan, we were wandering around the small streets surrounding this church and happened in a restaurant named Cimmino Fresco. Where I ate one of the best meatballs of my life. Sloane and I both ordered the meatballs and Berkley ordered veal milanese. The rest of the meal was nothing exceptional but these meatballs were fluffy, had a nice crispy parts on the outside, and had whole roasted pine nuts sprinkled throughout. It’s good to be out of Croatia and have a lot more variety on the menu.

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Breakfast

This post is dedicated to my friend, Tina.  I hope she reads the blog!

So, the food has been quite predictable and overall fairly bad for the past week or so, since leaving Rovinj.  We have found that the menu has been almost identical in every restaurant we have looked at.  3-4 variations of soup, 2-3 types of salad, a few pasta dishes, a few types of risotto, and some overpriced seafood and grilled meats.  But, all in all, predictable and not that good when ordered.  This was a disappointment after leaving Rovinj, where the food was good and there was some variety. That’s why you haven’t seen Seth post much about food lately, because there hasn’t been much inspiration.

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But, there’s a bakery in Vis.  Let me begin by mentioning that Vis is a very small town.  So, I was surprised to see the hours of the little bakery.  They open at 6am and do not close until 2am.  That’s a long day.  This morning I noticed that the window mentioned that they sold bourek inside.  I know bourek because of my friend Tina.  I was kind of surprised to see it, because I thought it was an Armenian type of food.  And, perhaps it still is.  Maybe there’s some kind of link between Armenia and Croatia that I don’t know about, or perhaps the owner simply happens to be of Armenian descent.  Either way I had meat bourek for breakfast and it was delicious.  And I thought about my friend Christina with every bite.  We used to go to her grandma’s house and raid her kitchen.  The kitchen is any chef’s dream, and it was always filled to the brim with amazing Armenian food that her grandma would constantly prepare.  Bourek was one of them.  I hope my memory serves me correctly, because otherwise, I have no idea why I connect Tina to bourek.  Tina, you would have enjoyed it.  

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Also, in my earlier post I neglected to mention a little gem we happened upon last night.  But, Christina would have enjoyed this as well.  Seth and I went for a walk, and were about to call it a night when we noticed that the door to the bottom of the bell tower was open and people were huddling around the entrance.  When we inched closer we heard that there was singing coming from inside.  When we peeked our heads inside, and eventually sat down to listen, we found an octet of men we had seen around town during our stay.  Aside from the fact that their voices were heavenly, the acoustics in this stone tower with arched ceilings was magnificent.  Though Seth favored the lead tenor who would solo from time to time, I enjoyed the ultra bass whose voice reverberated through my bones.  It was awesome, and something I love to happen upon.  These little local gems are what I hope we can continue to find, even if we can’t understand a lick of what they are saying!

20 Bucks If You Throw that Cat Into the Water

I realized that I have not mentioned something that has been going on since the start of our trip with Sloane.  Basically, Seth has been offering Sloane money, and Sloane has been turning it down, every time.  It started out with easy stuff like, “Sloane, if you invite that guy to join us for dinner, I’ll give you 20 bucks,” and without fail Sloane has turned him down.  I think the number to date reaches over $1000 that she’s refused so far.  Anyhow, there’s this one feral cat that hangs around the ‘main drag’ of Vis.  The standing bet is that Sloane gets, I think, $250 if she throws the cat into the harbor overhand.  This bet stands as long as we’re in Vis (or if Sloane ever comes back and properly documents the occasion).  So far, Sloane has not followed through with any of them.  Hmm…  Maybe I’ll take a picture of the cat today.  Probably not though.

Anyhow, right now it’s 6:32am.  I thought my body would find a different natural rhythm from when I am at home, but so far, not so much.  I still wake up pretty early.  Though Vis is pretty quiet at night, I had mentioned that we are staying in the perfect location, one side beach, other side stores, and 180 degree view.  This still stands, but it means that lots of people will pass below our window.  It, also, means that it is the perfect corner for little kids to hide behind to scare their friends.  And, I think there are boats that pull up in the middle of the night to load or unload things.  So, last night, through my benedryl and earplugs, I was awoken by some heartily chortling men with heavy bags of something.  I don’t know what.  So, beautiful view, nice location, not much sleep.  Oh well…

Today we are catching a bus back to the main town, then a ferry back to Split, then a bus to Trogir where we’ll stay near the airport, because tomorrow we fly from Split to Milan, Italy, where we’ll stay for one night before catching our plane from Milan to Athens (Greece, not Texas).  Then, we stay a night in Athens before catching a Ferry, or plane, to Milos, what looks to be a beautiful island in the Cyclades. For those of you who don’t know, the Cyclades are the group of islands that include Mykonos and Thira (more commonly known as Santorini).  Milos is said to be ‘off the beaten path’.  I don’t think it will be empty, but hopefully it will be less busy than the major tourist destinations of Mykonos and Thira.  Milos is known for beautiful beaches and a lot of nature.  I’m looking forward to it.  But, we have a lot of travel before then!

Vis

We arrived in Vis yesterday morning, by ferry.  From the ferry, we piled on a bus with too many other people to get to our part of the island, Komiza.  After standing like a sardine in a bus for 20  minutes on a switchback road down a mountain, we file off the bus.  We take a look around, when Seth notices a woman holding a paper with his name on it! What?!?  So we followed this old woman back to our apartment, as she gives me a little tour of the town in broken English.  It was so wonderful.  

It turns out that we have the best apartment on the island.  Yeah it’s small, and sometimes there’s a funny smell that wafts from the bathroom, but we are on the corner of a little bay, with a beautiful ocean view, with a beach on one side and all the shops and restaurants on the other.  Later in the day we found out that if we walk up a few flights of stairs we have access to a kitchen, and a rooftop deck.  The deck was so pretty, so we played a round of Farkle up there.  Somehow Seth won, again!

One of the first things we did was head down to the little beach we can see from our window.  It’s a beautiful little rocky beach, with white stones and clear water of shades of blues and greens.  Beautiful, but apparently not the ideal beach.  Rocky beaches hurt!  And then, the water was really cold! Aah! It was nice though, and Seth gave me a ‘hot stone massage’.

Vis Stone Massage