Monthly Archives: September 2012

Back on American Soil

Sorry to tell you guys this after the fact, but we made an unexpected trip back to the US.  We strolled along American soil where most everybody spoke english and things were clean and well kept.

Um, well, here’s the thing, at our food tour we were part of a group where four out of the seven of us worked for the US Embassy.  We became friendly with a couple, and they invited us to see the Embassy.  The US embassy in Delhi takes up 3 large blocks.  It’s quite impressive.  There are offices, living quarters, a ‘country club’, an acclaimed international school, and so much more.  It was a really neat experience.  Neither Seth nor I had ever been to a US embassy, so it was a first!  It was, also, really interesting to get the perspective of living in India with a family and hearing about little things that you wouldn’t think of otherwise.  Of course, the school and her kids were really intriguing to me. Hearing about their experience was important for me.

You’ll notice that there are no photos of the embassy.  That’s because you can’t take photos of an embassy, duh.

Because they are just lovely people, they invited us to have dinner with them at their home, which happened to be right around the corner from the place we were staying.  It was a bit of a shock to catch a glimpse into their fridge and their kitchen, because it was packed with products that I haven’t seen since early June.  Working at the embassy they have access to American goods.  We had a delicious meal of a cobb salad (planned?) and baked potatoes, with rice crispy treats for dessert.  Yum! It was so welcome.  It was really nice to swap travel stories and hear about their experiences.

monk Rum

New Delhi, Hold the Belly

We needed to do a lot of planning.  We still had no plans, at all, for our time in India.  We were starting to see that a good area to visit would be Rajistan, so we began inquiring into a few tour agencies.  Then we hired a car to take us around for the day to see some Delhi sights before our evening activities.

Hiring a car is the best way to see India, so I’m told, and so far I believe it.  If only for the mere fact that they drive on the other side of the road.  But, along with that, it’s like a MarioKart race of sorts, bobbing and weaving through traffic to get to the red light first.  But, that’s another thing.  There were places where all the cars would stop, but I didn’t see any stop lights, or stop signs.  So, it seems as if there are secret rules. Did we mention we saw Batman driving around Delhi?

delhiTraffic

Anyhow, we hired a car.  His English was quite minimal, so asking cultural questions and, really, any questions at all were not worth the time.  At one point during the day we were trying to explain to him that we wanted to buy some water and snacks at a store.  We used as many descriptive words as possible, “a place where they sell food/ things to eat/ water/etc and other variations of the phrase, and we ended up at a place where they sold textiles and handicrafts. Nope.

But, we did have a list of places where we we wanted to go that were well known, large monuments, and he was able to get us to those.  We saw the Gate of India (basically Delhi’s arc du triompf), the president’s house and all the government buildings, we went to the Lodi Gardens, drove past the ultra modern Lotus Temple, and walked around Houmayoun’s tomb.  It was all pretty neat.  It was nice to walk around the tomb and the gardens, but it was super hot and humid.

berkley Temple

We made our way back to the hotel to shower up before our evening adventures.  Seth found a street food tour online called Delhi Food Tours that seemed quite trustworthy.  What sold us was that the wife, Aisha, was the tester.  Aisha apparently has a very sensitive stomach, ever since she attended an American boarding school for high school.  So, if she gets sick within 2 days after going to a restaurant, they take it off their list.

The first stop on the list was to a tea shop where we were invited to try a variety of teas from India.  This is something Seth and I really enjoy and visiting the tea shop was an unexpected treat.  There were light white teas all the way to rich, full bodied black teas. A nice start to the evening.

Delhi Tea

Our second stop was a restaurant that is spposed to have food from the area of Goa.  That’s a beach area in the south of India.  I really liked the food there.  They had a fried fish with chili powder and lime and it was so, so good.  I also really liked their chutney.

first stop curry

The next place we went to was fabulous.  There we tried something called a dosa.  A dosa is kind of like when you take cheese and slap it on a fry top until it turns into a chip.  But, it doesn’t taste like cheese, it tastes like a cracker.  And really good.  And you use it like a nacho, dipping it into sauces.  I really liked the sauce that was like a tomato lentil soup.  So good!  But, what I, also, really enjoyed here was the coffee.  I don’t normally drink coffee after about noon or so, but I was assured that this coffee would be different from any coffee I’d ever had.  And it was.  It was rich and caramelly and oh so good! And they do this thing to mix in the sugar where you pour it from glasss to cup, back and forth to mix in the sugar and make the coffee a bit frothy.  I really hope to find that again.

pour coffee

Delhi Dosa

We, then, went to a place that specializes in BBQ.  I truly loved this place.  We had BBQ chicken that was spectacular.  It was perfectly cooked, not dry, but nice and juicy and jam packed with flavor.  Seth’s favorite was the spicy lamb kabob.  I liked it too, but I was busy with the chicken.

Delhi BBQ

Then there was the dessert place.  But, before dessert we had to try some of their main courses as well!  Seth and I each got lassi, one sweet, one salty.  The sweet one was just like in the states, but the salty one was not just plain yogurt.  It had spices in it like cardamom, black pepper, and salt. Both really interesting, but I liked the sweet one best.  We then tried the ‘grenades’.  Seth tried one first, then waited for my reaction.  It was like a little puff that you crack open at the top, so that you can fill it wit a potato mixture and a green juice.  It explodes in your mouth and was quite reminiscent of eggs.  Since, I’ve heard it described as having a septic like taste.  Great.  Then came what has been lovingly named ‘the compost pile’.  I truly liked that one.  It was little flat dumpling type things covered in a yogurt and pomegranate, ginger, and some other stuff.  Not sure.  I really liked it. A delicious dish came out next with spiced chick peas.  Oh so good! Finally it was time for dessert.  The sweets were so decadent.  My favorite was gulab jamun. Almost like a doughnut soaked in syrup.

We were beyond full after all that.  It was a delicious evening and it was nice to meet some Delhi natives and some people from back home.

Kwa Heri Africa, Namaste India

Good bye Africa, hello India! 

It took us 24 hours of travel to get here, but we’re in New Delhi, India.  We left our beach bungalow at 10am to get to the Zanzibar airport.  We took a short flight, about a half hour or less, to Dar es Salaam, then we had to wait for our next flight, which was 5 hours away.  This might be ok if we were in an airport like DIA (Denver Airport) where we could wander through the stores aimlessly, have a decent bite to eat, or even post up at the New Belgium Brewery in the airport.  But, Dar es Salaam is a tiny airport. There’s 3 to 4 tiny shops that have the exact same items, and a restaurant that looked questionable and was severely overpriced, like the stores.  It was actually kinda funny.  We found little Kirkland packets of nuts for sale, but they were like $5, and not worth it.  A small pack of gum was $3.  So we sat and listened to our audio book.

Finally we took the 3 hour flight to Ethiopia.  We had another 5 hours to kill in that airport.  We had originally thought we were going to be there during the day, and that we would check in, leave our bags, and venture out into Ethiopia for lunch or dinner.  But, it was from 7pm to midnight, so we skipped that idea.  This airport was weird.  The shops were filled with random designer labels, but it all seemed fishy, like they were counterfeit, or they had “fallen off a truck”.  Also, the shelves were fairly empty, there’d be a huge shelf with two or three items on it.  And there were TONS of cigarettes.  Apparently cigarettes from China are a hot commodity, because they were expensive, $50 a carton, while Marlboro were $16.

It was finally time to head to our gate.  When the man called for passengers with children, needing special assistance, and business class members, the entire group of people in the waiting area bum rushed the entrance.  And they began to enter without being let in.  Eventually we made our way up, but the people were so pushy and then so close behind us that I kind of wish we had waited for everyone else to board first.  But we needed to assure that we had overhead luggage space. They would push up against you, and when you turned your head they would apologize, but do it again and again.  Just before the plane there was a guy trying to check everyone’s ticket, and we watched him turn away a passenger and realize that he might have been letting people on the plane who shouldn’t have been let on.  Hmm.  I’m pretty sure there were some stow aways on that flight.

The flight was about 6 hours, after the delay, but it was not a bad flight.  We dosed ourselves with our respective knock out drugs and were able to sleep a bit.  Aside from the fact that I was awoken by people walking by and bumping into me with elbows and carts, we were awoken in the middle of the night for a meal.  I think we were in a daze because we sleepily ate a meal at about 2:30 in the morning.  Totally unnecessary, but we were zoned out.  Seth barely remembered anything the next day.

The plane landed and the airport in India was much more vigilant about the passengers on the plane.  They cattle blocked the exit and checked everyone’s ticket stub, and if they couldn’t find it, they had to wait.  I thought that was awesome.

We were picked up by someone from our hotel and we made our way into Delhi.  We landed on a Sunday morning, so traffic wasn’t like it normally is.  We’ve heard a lot about Delhi traffic.  And, maybe it’s because we just spent a few weeks in Africa, but so far New Delhi is not like we expected.  It is much ‘nicer’ than we expected.  But, I’m also going to assume that we are in the nicer part of the city.  When I looked up our area it seems to be the Silverlake of New Delhi.  But, when I say this, don’t picture a street lined with pretty store fronts and welcoming restaurants.  I said it is the Silverlake of New Delhi.  We’ve already encountered areas that require ten gallon lungs to hold your breath.

Our hotel, aside from our romantic anniversary night, is the nicest hotel we’ve been in.  Amarya Haveli is a cute boutique B&B where we were offered their delicious homemade iced tea upon arrival.  Our room is the Jaipur room, so it is themed pink, with a pink temple painted on the wall.  And the bathroom is glorious.  Aside from the fact that you have to keep your mouth glued shut in the shower (we’re in India) it is amazing, with water pressure and extremely hot water.  And we had the best night sleep, probably since we moved out of our apartment in May.  AC, hot water, clean, and a comfy bed.  Awesome.

Amarya Haveli

We ventured out for a walk to a park nearby.  We ended up finding Deer Park, where they actually have deer in an enclosure.  There was a lady there who was feeding them yellow rice and naan.  I have a feeling that she wasn’t supposed to be doing that.

deerRice

Eventually we made our way to a recommended restaurant called Park Baluchi (which I bet means deer park), where we would have our first Indian meal.  We ordered two beers, two vegetarian dishes, and two types of bread. The beer was Kingfisher and the waiter presented them to each of us like one would a bottle of wine.  It was interesting.  Then there was a well packed ball of ricotta like cheese in something similar to a vodka sauce (i.e. tomato and cream).  That was really good.  It had lots of spices and a bit of a kick. Yum! Then there was a spinach based dish with string beans, corn and potatoes.  That was, also, very good.  We accompanied those with regular naan and kolcha, which is what I believe to be India’s version of pizza.  It was a flat bread with some chopped tomatoes, spices and cheese.  All very good.

firstDinner

We made our way back to our hotel and ordered some masala chai tea to keep ourselves awake so that we wouldn’t fall asleep too early.  The tea was delicious. And so was our night’s sleep. Aahhh…