Tag Archives: Thuptenchholing Monastery

Solu Khombu Trek – Day 5

Our walk from the Thuptenchholing Monastery to Singephuk was beautiful.  We made our way out of one type of terrain to find ourselves in a forest.  The mulched ground and the mossy trees lent itself to such a silence.  It was a beautiful trek.  On our way we stopped at a ‘cave’ where monks used to spend time in solitude.  So, this is something interesting we’ve learned about since visiting Nepal and many monasteries.  When I picture a monk living in solitude, it is usually in a sparse room alone, maybe only a book of Buddhism to keep him company.  But apparently what solitude means is that a few monks go to a place and lock themselves away from the rest of the world, but the monks can speak with each other.  It’s just different from what I pictured.  Anyhow, we went to look at a ‘cave’ that monks use for solitary thoughts.  I use the word cave loosely, because they had fashioned an overhang of rock with bricks and a window, and called it a cave.  Once again, we had pictured something else.

Nepal 2664

We stopped by a monastery school to look around, and they invited us in for tea.  People talk about trekking and stopping in Tea Houses along the way.  Well, I don’t think I’ve seen a tea house, or stopped in one, but we have stopped in numerous monasteries where they offer us tea galore.  It’s a nice practice.

We finally made it to Shengeephuk, and it was breathtaking.  A rounded out valley of massive proportions.  Spring fed streams twist and tangle all about the valley floor.   Set up of the left side of the valley wall sits the cave where the well respected, and recently deceased, Rimpoche spent three years in meditation.  Seth and I went for a walk trying to find the main source of the spring, but we decided that it was too high up on the wall.  By the time we decided this we were a bit of a boggy walk back to camp.  We spent a good amount of time rock hopping so as to not step in mud or fall in the water.

Nepal 2694

Nepal 2758

A little while later we went back up to the cave house with all of our guys to pay respect to the late lama.  It was a very nice experience to be ble to share that with them.  We had a bunch of katas (prayer shawls) that we gave to all of them, and Poorba, our sherpa guide shared some of his grain with us in order to make an offering that way.  We then hung our prayer flags.  It was very nice.

Nepal 2789

Nepal 2775

That evening is when I began to feel unwell.  But, I was determined to shake it.

Solu Khombu Trek – Day 4

This morning we woke up at 5am to be able to sit in on morning meditation with the nuns.  It was such a wonderful, relaxing experience.  The hum of their prayers reverberating through the brightly frescoed walls depicting peaceful and wrathful gods.  The nuns line up sitting crossed legged and sometimes stop to drink tea, or have a snack.  There are intermittent pauses in the chorus, and then they will all start up again, almost all at once.  There were occasional breaks where there would be playing of instruments like horns, cymbals, and drums, then back to the humming of prayer.  It felt very human.  Though they are a group of nuns, and a few monks here and there, it was a serious business, but not too serious for being friendly or human.  When someone would walk up to take their place, smiles and sometimes a brief conversation would ensue.

Nepal 2488

Morning meditation at Thuptenchholing monastery.

We walked around and took in the sights.  And the sights are extraordinary.  The monastery is perched high above a valley with streams and tall pines everywhere.  There are Tibetan prayer flags strung across valleys of immense distance.  The monastery is not too old, so the buildings are in quite good condition, and they are beautiful in a beautiful setting.  We walked through numerous kitchens, all preparing food for the 600 or so nuns.  That means a lot of potatoes, since those are the staple here.  They grow a lot of spinach here too.  It really is a beautiful, magical, peaceful place.

Nepal 2519

Dried yak cheese, it’s just as tasty as it sounds..

Nepal 2494

A testament to their patients, nuns peal thousands of potatoes every day.

Nepal 2498

Massive wood burning ovens that feed over 600 people 3 meals a day!

Nepal 2554

A nun making roti.

Nepal 2586

We had a lot of free time to go on walks and poke around the monastery.

In the late afternoon we met with the herbal medicine doctor to have our pulses read.  After gripping our wrists for a while, every now and then asking to see our tongues, we learned that Seth is having stomach issues and should lay off the sugar, and that I have hurt my back and should keep it warm.  Alrighty! I wonder if the pained expressions on my face while stretching my back or the snickers bar wrapper in the trash can had anything to do with our diagnoses?

Nepal 2425

Solu Khombu Trek – Day 3

Seth woke up feeling completely better.  It was a quick recovery and he’s back to his own self.  Good! Disaster averted!

Nepal 2343

Nepal 2302

We woke up bright and early, once again, to find spectacular views of the snowy peaks of Caryolung, Khatang, Numbur.  It proved for breathtaking views while walking up the hill to the Selo Monastery.  The Selo Monastery was very busy during our visit.  Apparently they are expecting a visitor within the next month who is a high lama from India and they wanted to make the monastery look beautiful for him.  They were repainting frescoes, remodeling guest housing, and refinishing wood, which was everywhere.  We got the chance to speak with the head lama of the monastery Tulku Pema Tarchen.  And then, one of his monks took us around for a tour.  This monastery focuses on teaching rather than practicing, so there are many children there.  It was nice to see their classrooms and their library.

Nepal 2317

Nepal 2319

After lunch we trekked for about two and a half hours to Thuptenchholing Monastery, which is home to 600 Buddhist nuns.  We were invited into the head nun’s office for tea, and ended up being served two bowls of noodle soup.  You don’t really have a choice in the matter.  There was a father and son there, also, and the father was trying to refuse more tea at one point, but gave in.  When the son was approached he grabbed his cup and told her no politely, but he still ended up having more tea.  That was pretty funny.

Nepal 2455

Nepal 2390

We spend a little time in the hospital where we were able to see a bit of Tibetan herbal medicine.  There was an entire wall filled with pictures of plants that are medicinal.  That was really neat.